Trapped by a Cold Front in Exuma Park

As soon as the sun rises, we pull up the anchor and head out of the Allen's Cay anchorage, unsure as to our final destination today. We think we may head to Norman's Cay, but our plans are fairly loose at the outset. Shortly after our departure, while we are motorsailing, the engine begins to sputter and choke - groan...not another problem. Also, the weather reports are predicting strong winds for tomorrow...so we now have two things to worry about. Just before 9am the broadcast for Exuma Land and Sea Park begins. Apparently moorings in the park are assigned at 9am each morning. We make a decision to add our boat name to the waiting list, although we are almost sure we have no hope of successfully being assigned a mooring today given the weather forecast - and the urgency everyone in the water on their boats seems to feel today.
Much to our surprise we are offered a mooring in the south anchorage which we think about for just a few seconds before jumping at the change to accept the mooring assignment. We will have to cross the Exuma cut to the Sound from the Bank side. For us, this is a huge endeavour...and just a little scary as the cuts are affected by tide, current, and wind - and they all have to be working together to effectively navigate through the cut. Add that to our engine woes, and we are once again in the land of uncertainty.
We make it safely through the cut to the Exuma Sound. It is actually so beautiful. It is on this side that the fishing is supposed to be the best. We navigate south and tuck into Hog Cay in the south mooring field at Exuma Park. Blair and I have been using our "marriage saver" headsets to anchor and manage the moorings this season. This was to be the final day for their use, though, as Blair's "stepped-on, taped-up_ headset disappears overboard, floating out of the Cay into the Exuma Sound. Oh well, at least we still have one - maybe we will call it a back-up for a future new set!
The mooring field here is breathtaking. There are only five mooring balls, and no anchoring is allowed. It is unbelievable - the deepest turquoise and clear water we have seen yet. I know I keep saying this, but truly this protected park is absolutely stunning! We launch the dinghy and make our way through the reef on the Bank side over past Emerald Rock and the north anchorage to the Exuma Park office to sign in - and to stretch our legs. Even the other mooring fields are beautiful and a sight not to be missed. We are relieved to be on a mooring here in anticipation of the cold front and the strong northeast wind due tomorrow.
What we did not realize until Saturday arrived is that we are, in fact, so protected that we are trapped here. The northeast wind is pounding the bank to the east of us, and sending huge waters breaking into the opening to Hog Cay. We spend all day Saturday on the boat, feeling a little like Gilligan - unable to escape. By Sunday, we throw caution to the wind and get in the dinghy to maneuver our way over to the east bank in our mooring field. We climb up and stare breathlessly at the huge waves breaking on the limestone rocks at our feet. Water is spewing out of the blow hole close to where we are standing. Here is nature in all its glory with us standing right in the middle of it - quite an exhilarating feeling!
Now that we have braved the ravages of the ocean at our feet, we are less intimidated and make our way in the dinghy over to Emerald Rock to do some exploring. It is like entering a different world - so calm and serene - it is mind boggling that we are seeing such contradiction in the same day on two different sides of the same park!
We do a little exploring and hiking around the park - although we do not make it over to the famous Boo Boo Hill. The wind is just too strong to take full advantage of the sights and the snorkeling available here. Perhaps we will see more another time. We get back to the boat and prepare for an escape tomorrow morning. We hope that the water will lay down enough for us to make our way out of this Cay and its protection so that we can make it through the Exuma Cut on slack tide over to the Bank side. Blair has changed the main filter in the fuel tank so we also hope that our engine troubles are over as we don't want to find ourselves adrift with no engine in fierce seas. Anyway, we retire on Sunday night with visions of potential disaster dancing in our heads...isn't boating fun?

Some Interesting Facts about Exuma Land and Sea Park:
In 1959, the Bahamian Parliament set aside the 176 square mile area known as the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park, overseen by the Bahamas National Trust. The Park, stretching from Wax Cay Cut to Conch Cut, is 22 miles long and 8 miles wide. It includes 15 large islands and many more tiny ones, preserved in pristine natural state. Its stated purpose is to provide a safe haven and replenishment area for the wildlife native to the Bahamas and to educate the public in saving this beautiful environment. Warderick Wells is home to Park headquarters as well as the famous cairn on Boo Boo Hill with mementos from cruising boats and a spectacular blow hole nearby. There are very specific rules in the Park: no taking or destruction of any marina mammals, fish, birds, plants, coral reefs or beach sand; and no trash disposal.
Visiting boaters have been caught taking fish, lobster, and souvenirs from the Park. Apart from the $500 per person on board per incident fine, your boat can be confiscated. The rules here are absolute: Enjoy everything that is here, but leave it as you found it.