As we suspected with the weather forecast from Chris Parker, the wind has shifted to the north and our beautiful anchorage has become very lumpy. But we are ready for this, so we pull up the anchor, set our sails and motorsail through the cays, bound for Rose Island via Nassau on New Providence Island. We have great wind direction, although it is too light for us to make any significant headway today, so once again we are motorsailing. We do manage to set the sails wing on wing with all the preventers in place. It turns out to be a pleasant day in the cockpit, reading and writing as we move along. As we get closer to Nassau, I nudge Blair into setting the fishing lines off the back of the boat. We really don't know what we are doing with the whole fishing thing, and we are quite certain that we are too inexperienced to catch anything, but we put some line in the water anyway. After a very short time, I look out at the fishing line on the rear port side, and comment to Blair that it looks as though we may have a fish on the hook. Initially, he looks skeptical, but the next thing you know, all hell breaks loose as he tears out of the cockpit toward the line, shouting for me to grab my camera to get some shots of the Mahi Mahi on the line - WOW! I practically break my neck as I lunge forward in the v-berth trying to uncover my new camera from its protected spot under a load of stowed-away materials. My heart racing and adrenaline pumping, I locate the camera and race back up the companionway, through the cockpit and along the side deck of the boat to where Blair is shouting excitedly to: "hurry, hurry...grab the gaff!!!" I snap as many photos as I can, then race back to the cockpit, through the companionway to search for the gaff...locate it and retrace my steps to the site where Blair is wrestling with the Mahi. He gaffs the Mahi and is now shouting for me to run for the vodka to sedate the Mahi (we've heard that this is the only way to get the Mahi safely on board). This is starting to resemble a Chinese firedrill as I race back down below to grab the vodka bottle. By now, things are getting very crazy on the back deck. By the time I scramble back up with the vodka bottle, Blair has a beautiful Mahi hanging by the gaff over the swim platform. Within seconds, the fierce fish wriggles off the hook and the gaff, and swims off to safety. We are both dumbstruck and almost ready to cry. Blair moves right on to some ferocious cursing. The only trophies left of this fishing adventure are the photos captured on my camera...and the blood on Blair's khaki shorts - a souvenir courtesy of the gaffed Mahi.
We finally recover from the disappointment of losing our first fish and decide to venture through Nassau Harbour enroute to Rose Island rather than bypassing it. It should be worth the experience - so we put away our trepidation at navigating through the Harbour and radio ahead to the Harbour Master for permission to enter. As we start our way through, we are glad that we had made the decision as it is a sight to behold, and the cruise ships make it look like we are entering a boating disneyworld. Just as we pass the cruise ships, we look off to the starboard and see Ekotopia anchored in the Harbour. Carl hails us on the radio and suggests that we anchor in beside him as he claims that there is plenty of deep water all around him. We make a snap decision to explore the area and anchor here overnight. After circling around Ekotopia, we become a little alarmed at how shallow the water actually is, even given that we are quickly approaching low tide. Suddenly...THUD, we are firmly aground off of Ekotopia's port side. DAMN! The worst part of this is that the current is beginning to change and while there is no danger of our boat moving, there is a catamaran that is anchored right behind our stern and they are beginning to swing with the current. I am about ready to be sick to my stomach. Carl maneuvers his dinghy over to the bow of our boat, trying to push us off the sandbar - no luck. We wave at a couple of ferry boat operators to give us some wake as they pass - which they do - no luck. As a last resort, with the tide continuing to go down, Blair calls the BASRA office - which we happen to be right in front of. I believe the BASRA man's name is Chester Darville - he actually comes out to the boat. He initially offers to loan us an anchor - which seems comical given our present situation - until the tide begins to rise. We suggest that he try to tow us off - and although he is reluctant at first to do so, he throws us a line which we tie off to our bow, and he goes to work. Slowly, slowly, slowly, he manages to ease us off the sandbar - yay! He then leads us safely out of the shallow area. It seems that part of the Harbour had been dredged to allow the cruise ships to pass through more easily. The only problem was that the dredged sand was piled up on the side of the Harbour where we found ourselves aground. Only in the Bahamas would they forget to post a sign or warn passing transient boats about a new manmade sand bar in Nassau Harbour. Now that we are free, we waste no time leaving the Harbour. We say our goodbyes to Carl and Laura, making our way to Rose Island as originally planned. Along the way we pass some stately mansions and incredible properties past the Atlantis Hotel and Resort.
We find our way around Porgee Rocks and Athol Island to Rose Island. On our approach we are hailed by Dave and Joanne on Tropical Breeze who have left Stuart, Florida and are tucked away at this anchorage - what a surprise. We find a spot with good holding and drop our anchor just as the sun is setting - and we hear the distant sound of the conch horns from the surrounding boats.
All in all, an eventful day with a valuable lesson to us at the end - stick to your original plan!
Some Interesting Facts about Nassau, New Providence:
New Providence is one of the smaller of the inhabited islands. Though it measures only 7 x 21 miles, it has two-thirds of the country's population centred int he capital city of Nassau. Nassau has a very long and active history in the New World. The city was originally a haven for pirates such as Henry Morgan, Edward Teach (aka Blackbeard), Charles Vane, and Calico jack Rackham. Originally called Charles Town, Nassau has also served as home to blockade runners during the American Civil War years, rum runners during the American Prohibition years, and was quite often a stopover for drug runners from the more recent drug running years. Nassau is now touted world wide as a prime vacation destination with its beautiful beaches, near perfect weather, casinos, and nightlife.
Nassau Harbour lies between the northeastern shore of the mainland of New Providence and the extremely touristy Paradise Island, once known as Hog Island. In 1961, Hog Island was purchased by American millionaire, Huntington Hartford and renamed Paradise island. In a few short years the island was transformed from a quiet Bahamian cay into one of the world's prime tourist destinations complete with major hotels, restaurants, an airport, a golf course, marinas, and the new huge Atlantis resort with its walk-through aquarium. An 11th century cloister was transported to the island and rebuilt in the Versailles Gardens. The cloister was originally from a 14th century French monastery and was brought to the United States by William Randolph Hearst. Hartford acquired the cloister and brought it to Paradise Island in the 1960's. Celebrities who at one time or another sought refuge on Paradise Island include Howard Hughes and the Shah of Iran.
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