Friday, February 18, 2011

Life in Black Point Settlement, Great Guana Cay

On Friday morning, we make a decision to make the short run south to Black Point Settlement on Great Guana Cay. Dave and Joanne on Tropical Breeze, and another couple of cruisers, Mike and Lu on s/v Chrisjen depart at the same time. Because it is such a short distance, we decide to tow the dinghy - we set our jib and motorsail. The wind is nice and we make really good headway, but as we approach our destination, we slow down to allow Tropical Breeze to inch in ahead of us. The anchorage here is quite good at Blackpoint and it is not too crowded. We recognize many of the boat names here as we all seem to be moving in the same general direction - my guess is that most (including us) are heading south to the Georgetown area. Blair and I head over to the Government dock once the anchor is set on Odissea xx to explore this settlement that we have head so many great things about. Before we can see too much, though, we run for cover from some passing squalls. Once it settles, we return to the boat to ready ourselves for Happy Hour at Scorpios Bar from 4-6pm today - offering two for one beer and rum punch - as well as free snacks. This Happy Hour event turns out to be a lot of fun and we are glad we took part in it. Every Friday and Tuesday night Scorpios hosts this event. We make this an early night so that we can do more exploring tomorrow.
On Saturday morning, Blair decides to make a couple of loaves of bread - it is difficult to locate fresh bread in the Bahamas. He accomplishes this completely by late morning, and they look amazing. We cover them with towels when they come out of the oven to allow them to cool, and then pack up the computer to head ashore for a little internet time. We choose to have lunch at Deshamon's - mmm..cracked conch and fries - and we can connect to the internet free of charge. It is a very good connection and I am able to do a little banking and to finally purchase a ticket to an event on May 1st that I do not want to miss. Lorraine at Lorraine's Cafe is hosting a big shindig on Saturday night - we make reservations for the buffet dinner here. We share a table with a large group of cruisers that we have met in our travels so far - turns out to be a fun evening - and we have a chance to finally meet the famous Lorraine from Black Point that we have heard so much about.
Sunday is a reasonably quiet day on the boat and at Black Point. We join up with Dave and Joanne and dinghy over close to the Dotham Cut to try some snorkelling. Dave is the first one in the water and announces a barracuda sighting. Following this report, I make a decision to remain in the dinghy as the spotter for the other three snorkellers. I am learning to trust my little inner voice - and this does not feel like a barracuda day. Dave is dreaming of finding lobster so he brings along his spear and sling - unfortunately he comes up empty-handed. The folks on board the lovely GulfStar, Peace, anchored behind us in the bay approach us in their dinghy - Larry and Jo - offering some pointers about great reefs to snorkle in the area.
On Monday, we do some light cleaning on the boat before we pack up our computers to head over to Deshamon's for some more internet time. I am trying to take advantage of the on-line availability while it is possible for us here. We plan to go back to Odissea xx for lunch, but as typically happens, we get sidetracked and end up accepting a lunch invitation to join Larry and Jo at Lorraine's. Once again, cracked conch, but this time Blair and I share the dish - one is more than enough for the two of us.
As we make our way back to the dinghy dock, we learn that there is a Happy Hour planned at the beach in the harbour. We prepare our appetizers and venture over to the beach at 5pm. The event turns out to be a "dinghy-rafting, pass the appetizers" kind of event. I snap a number of photos, but I am sure that the images I have captured could not possibly present a true picture of how this floating happy hour looks from afar. We meet a very nice couple, Scott and Donna on a lovely Island Packet - they end up offering us a spare dinghy anchor on Tuesday morning. They agree to join us on Tuesday at Scorpio's for Happy Hour (our treat) as payment for the anchor. Rum Line II and Rafiki I have arrived on Tuesday as well, so we all enjoy the event at Scorpio's tonight. I am glad that I don't drink rum as those folks around me who do claim to be numb! At the end of the day, we return to Odissea xx and once again prepare the boat for departure to Georgetown at first light. The wind at low slack is perfect for navigation through the Dotham Cut in the morning - and we don't want to miss this opportunity as the wind is predicted to shift southeast the day after tomorrow. Blair has set up the fishing lines as we will be moving out into the deeper waters of the Sound, and we fantasize about reeling in big Mahi and Wahoo on our lines!
We have enjoyed our stay at Black Point - it is a real Bahamian community with less of a "disney-like" feel to it. It has been well worth the visit and our lengthy stay.

Some Interesting Facts about Black Point, Great Guana Cay:
The Black Point community is an excellent example of a real out-island "non-touristy" settlement, the largest in the Exuma Cays, excluding Great Exuma. A walk through the community reveals a bustling school brimming with young children, three churches, two grocery stores, native straw work crafted by women along the sides of the roads, and even a driftwood and shell "Garden of Eden", two restaurants, and a bar, plus the obligatory government services of telephone office, police and clinic. A hike out to the bluff provides a fabulous view of the majestic Dotham Cut and the gorgeous ocean beaches.
This friendly settlement on Great Guana Cay has the second-largest population in the Exumas, after Georgetown. Cruisers are encouraged - as a thankyou to this lovely community for their hospitality in allowing for the use of their RO water spigots and the trash disposal trailer - to repay these folks by bringing the school some gym equipment or art supplies. As we had none of these on board our boat, we met with the principal of the school and offered some books and some tomato and herb seeds for planting.

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