Sunday, February 6, 2011

Heading off to the Berry Islands

Blair and I are up bright and early to throw off the lines and head south. Lina and Gail get up as well to help - much appreciated. Rum Line II will head out with the first available weather window after Thursday when Gail returns to Toronto. Their friends on Rafiki I will buddy sail with them.
We work our way through the channel, rounding the "S" so as not to touch the bottom with our boat. We breeze through seamlessly, and set a heading toward the Berry Islands - more specifically toward Great Stirrup Cay at Great Harbour. We end up anchored just before sunset in Goat Cay which has good water depth and protection from west winds. This is our first attempt at anchoring in the Bahamas and we are a bit nervous as we are not really sure what the tide and current will look like. All in all, we have had a good day - not totally sailing as we had to run the engine, but we are here at last, ready to explore on our own.

Some Interesting Facts about the Berry Islands:
The Berry Islands are an enchanting crescent of small cays (pronounced: keys) lying on the eastern extension of the Great Bahama Bank and skirting the edge of the Atlantic Ocean. The Berry Islands do not usually appear on the cruising itineraries of those who seek crowds or organized activities; rather the Berries consist of small unfrequented anchorages and unadulterated isolation. These islands etch a gentle "J" into the Northwest Providence Channel, not too far from the northern tip of Andros. The top of the chain begins with Little Stirrup in the north and ends its curve with Chub Cay and Mamma Rhoda Rock in the south. This cluster of approximately 30 islands and 100 cays is home to fewer than 700 Bahamians, Great Harbour Cay being the largest in land mass and population.
Ponce de Leon is thought to have visited this area on returning from Florida to Puerto Rico in 1513: still no Fountain of Youth for him. Settlements of freed slaves were attempted in the 1830's at Williamstown and Victoria, but they did not last. A stalwart reminder of the earlier era is the handsome white lighthouse at Great Stirrup Cay, built in 1863, to mark shipping lanes. In days past, the inhabitants of this area found sponging to be a way to support their families. Crops of coconut, sisal and guava were raised, as well as cattle and sheep.
In short, these are breathtaking and beautiful islands that are generally overlooked and underutilized as cruising grounds - instead they tend to be used as a resting point or clearing point before sailing on to other parts of the Bahamas.
Interestingly, notorious pirates such as the infamous Blackbeard often passed through the stirrups on their way from Nassau to the eastern shores of America. During the American Civil War, Federal gun boats regularly patrolled the waters to catch gun runners from Nassau to the southern US coast. Federal agents again patrolled this area for rum runners during American Prohibition and for drug runners in more recent times. Definitely a popular sight!.

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